Rehabilitating the Reichstag

The Reichstag building boasts historical architecture and a powerful message: Dem Deustchen Volke

The Reichstag building boasts historical architecture and a powerful message: Dem Deustchen Volke

by Alexa Blanchard

The International Media class from Point Park University continued its tour of Berlin, Germany, with an evening visit to a government building known as the Reichstag.

The Reichstag building, which has undergone decades of change and reform, initially began as the headquarters of the German empire’s parliament (also called diet or Reichstag) in 1894. According to berlin.de, The Parliament was controlled by several different entities, beginning first with the German empire, followed by the Weimar Republic, and finally in the 1930s fell under Nazi control.

The Nazi Reichstag abandoned the building in 1933 after a devastating fire that destroyed most the building and was never repaired until the fall of the Berlin Wall. Since architect Norman Foster led the reconstruction effort that was completed in 1999, the Reichstag building is used once again as a government entity by the Bundestag, the modern-day term for German parliament.

From the front, the Reichstag building is huge and intimidating with its historical architecture. The pillars and statues keeping watch over the city are reminiscent of the Parthenon of Greece. The building exudes an image of grace and authority over its subjects, powerful to behold. Above the pillars on the architrave is carved a short yet meaningful phrase: Dem Deutschen Volke, or, to the German people.

The dome at the Reichstag

The dome at the Reichstag

Attached to the back of the Reichstag building is a massive dome that attracts hundreds of tourists every day. Audio guides are available for use while visitors stroll along the terrace outside of the dome and take in the breathtaking Berlin skyline.

Once inside the dome, the audio guide will begin explaining the history of the building as visitors walk along a ramp that spirals along the edge of the wall to the top of the dome, culminating in a sky view that rests the weary traveler.

The audio guide not only explains the history of the Reichstag building and the dome but also stops the visitor on the ramp to point out several key points of Berlin, such as the television tower. Many of these buildings are historical elements that are related to the Reichstag building, but most are new buildings that had to be built or rebuilt following the devastation of World War II.

The bottom floor of the dome boasts a central element that holds the entire building together. A collection of black and white photographs with detailed captions in several languages are showcased around the middle point of the dome.

These photos outline the integral points of the Reichstag’s history, including the days when it was burned and unusable. Some of the most powerful images were taken during the final days of the Berlin Wall as students sat on top of the Wall in front of the Reichstag while the police force watched them from the ground.

The interior of the dome is perfect for audio walking tours.

The interior of the dome is perfect for audio walking tours.

Some of the images are also a bit startling and strange to think about from the perspective now. A photo from 1930 reads: “The NSDPA parliamentary group leaves the auditorium; only Joseph Goebbels remains as an observer.”

So, by this time the Nazi party had taken control. How eerie to still have NSDPA artifacts still on display in a government building. As with many painful things in Germany, the reason for the rebuilt Reichstag and the dome is most likely to serve as reminders to never forget, to never let things get as bad as they once were.

The roof terrace and dome of the Reichstag Building are open from 8 a.m. to midnight daily (last admission: at 10 p.m.)  Admission is free, but advance registration is

required. The online registration form can be found at http://visite.bundestag.de. It is closed from Dec. 24-31 and other dates for cleaning. It also closes at times for security reasons when the government is in session.

Stay in the east or flee to the west?

Checkpoint Charlie Museum

Checkpoint Charlie Museum

by Katie Pflug

Checkpoint Charlie was once a main crossing point between East and West Berlin and the Berlin Wall, but today it is a main historical attraction in Berlin, Germany.

The Checkpoint Charlie Museum may look like an old-fashioned home, but it is filled to the brim with historical remembrance of East and West Berlin.

Located near Potsdamer Platz, the Checkpoint Charlie Museum was erected in 1962 by freedom-fighter founder and director Dr. Rainer Hildebrandt. The museum started as a two and a half room apartment display that held history about the Berlin Wall. On June 14, 1962, the museum reopened in Friedrichstrasse in what used to be a block of flats, at the Checkpoint Charlie border crossing. Today it displays objects that helped escapees flee the East, exhibits to learn more about the history of the Berlin Wall and stories of escapees, according to its website.

Today the museum is run by Hildebrandt’s widow, Alexandra Hildebrandt, who, since the death of her husband in 2004, has expanded the museum to include more exhibitions about human rights and freedom.

The  permanent exhibition dates back to the museum’s first days, just after the building of the Berlin Wall, and charts the lifespan of the world’s supposedly most secure border system, according to its website. Here visitors can see original boards created by Hildebrandt in the 1960s, who worked with journalists, escape organizers and protesters to put together a compact and clear outline of the background to the wall’s creation, as well as other key events in East Germany’s history, such as the June 17, 1953, uprisings.

Katie Pflug and Michelle Graessle stop for a photo of the American sector exit sign.

Katie Pflug and Michelle Graessle stop for a photo of the American sector exit sign.
(photo by Connor Mulvaney)

After viewing the first room, visitors walk up a staircase that has children’s paintings all the way up to the top of the stairs. Each of the paintings explains the separation between East and West Germany and how children wish they could all be friends.  The paintings and drawings add a child’s perceptive to the museum, which gives visitors another great way to think about how the Berlin Wall affected so many people’s lives.

Throughout the whole museum there are many displays that shows objects that helped East Berliners escape to the west. From suitcases and heaters to escape cars, hot air balloons, homemade mini-submarines and deceptively hollow surfboards are just a few of the items that people used to escape. Reading the stories left many visitors looking shocked.

The museum displays a homemade airplane that was used as an escape method. The only part of the plane that was not homemade was the engine, which was taken out of a car.

The museum also has on exhibit other work describing human rights violations around the world and a permanent NATO exhibition.

Point Park students found the Checkpoint Charlie Museum a great way to learn more about what was happening while the wall was up in Berlin. The museum is heavy on reading, student visitors said, but each and every display is worth taking the time to read and understand.

The museum is open every day of the year from 9 a.m. until 10 p.m., including festivals such as Christmas and Easter and other bank holidays. Admission charges are 12.50 euros for adults, 8.50 euros for groups of 20 or more, and 9.50 for students and 6.50 for ages 7-18. Children up to 6 are free. Guided tours are available.

A castle fit for a King

Neuschwanstein is nestled in the hills of Hohenschwangau, Bavaria (photo by Katie Pflug)

Neuschwanstein is nestled in the hills of Hohenschwangau, Bavaria
(photo by Katie Pflug)

by Andrea Karsesnick

One hundred and seventy-two days.

That’s how long King Ludwig II lived in Neuschwanstein Castle, a tall, white picturesque structure sitting high in the mountains of Hohenschwangau, Bavaria, Germany. The castle was the inspiration of Disneyland’s Sleeping Beauty castle, and it has been featured prominently in many films and German tourism videos.

King Ludwig was born on Aug. 25, 1845, in Bavaria in Schloss Nymphenburg. He began his reign as king in 1864 at the age of 18. He claimed to have accepted the throne too quickly and regretted it.

Ludwig II lived in a fantasy world. He wanted to believe in a “holy kingdom,” where each ruler was chosen by the divine right theory of kingship. In reality, Ludwig II was a constitutional monarch with duties.

He was a recluse, who secluded himself in his castle away from everyone and did not tend to his duties as king. The castle was never completed, although he moved into in 1884. In 1885, banks threatened to take away his property, and Ludwig II developed political enemies. He was arrested and interned in the Berg Castle in 1886. Ludwig II died of mysterious circumstances, an apparent drowning, on June 13 that year in Lake Starnberg. He died alongside his psychiatrist who had diagnosed him as insane.

He started to build it on the ruins of another castle.  The construction of Neuschwanstein started in the summer of 1868 and was ready for Ludwig II to move in in the end of 1884, according to the castle’s official website. He only lived in the castle for a short period before his death. He only saw this home as a construction site.

Neuschwanstein was Ludwig II’s escape from reality. It was his dream world modeled on the Middle Ages. The paintings on the walls were done by seven different unknown artists from the academy in Munich. Famous artists did not want to work for Ludwig II because there would be little room for creativity in the artwork as Ludwig II had all of the ideas. Nonetheless, the paintings are extremely intricate and ornate.

The castle from ground level.

The castle is a 30-minute uphill walk.
(photo by Johnie Freiwald)

Ludwig II did not want anybody to share his luxurious castle with anyone. However, the castle was open to the public seven weeks after his death. Today, roughly 1.4 million people visit the castle each year and there are nearly 8,000 visitors each day.

The Point Park University group’s tour guide cited her favorite part of the elaborate castle.  Saura Samgabote, who has led tours there for seven years, says, “I love the details in the paintings. Every day I notice something I did not the day before.”

The decorated walls of Neuschwanstein were based on and inspired by the works of Richard Wagner, who was a good friend of Ludwig II. The paintings were inspired by his operas and medieval legends. There were three main figures on the walls of Neuschwanstein: Tannhaeuser, the swan knight Lohengrin and the Grail King Parzival.

Another theme used throughout the interior walls was religion. Ludwig II’s throne room was overseen by whom he saw as the highest king, Jesus. Ludwig II believed kingship to be “by the grace of God.”

The swan is also seen many times within the castle. Ludwig had a large swan statue and even door handles were modeled to form swan necks. The swan followed the religious theme as they are the Christian symbol of purity.

A basic ticket to the castle costs 12 euros. The visiting hours of the castle are from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. April to 15 October. From Oct. 16 to March, the hours are shortened to 10 a.m-4 p.m. Tickets need to be purchased in advance, and visitors can only enter the castle’s rooms by guided tour. The castle is closed Dec. 24-25 and Jan. 1.

Visitors have to purchase tickets at the Ticketcenter Hohenschwangau in the village of Hohenschwangau below the castle. From Munich, tourists need to take a train and then a bus to the castle; it’s a very steep 30-minute walk to the castle from the village, although a bus and horse carriages are available.

Day Eleven

Our last day in Munich has been a really long one.  We started the day off with a visit to Ketchum-Pleon Munich, a PR agency.  We had the opportunity to speak to a few brilliant people.  They showed us some of their work, which was quite witty and hilarious.

We wrapped up our visit and headed back to the hotel for a quick lunch.  We decided to try a place right next to our hotel.  I really wish we would have discovered it prior to our last day in Munich because they had some really delicious falafel (a burger made out of chickpeas).  After my mouth watering lunch, I did some quick packing.  Before we knew it, it was time for our final media visit.

We began our adventure to Suddeutsche Zeitung, a German newspaper.  They gave us a brief lecture about the history of their company and where they stand today.  They also gave us a look at some of the innovative advertising they have done in the past.  As an advertising major, this was really awesome to see.  They had textured ads that felt like real leather.  They also had UV coated ads.  This was all really impressive and probably my favorite part of the visit.

After the lectures, they gave us a tour of their printing press.  I have never seen a printing press, so I didn’t really know what to expect.  We walked into the room and I didn’t even know where to look.  It was massive!  It was moving at what seemed to be a million miles an hour.  Thousands of papers were being printed out before my eyes.  I could not believe how compelling this place was.

Our media visit had ended and we were off to our final group dinner at the Ratskeller.  We were treated to a beautiful dinner and an even more beautiful dessert.  This was a perfect evening to our final day in Germany.  Now it’s time for packing and “quick sleeping,” as Jan likes to say. Goodnight, Munich!

 

Day Ten

Today we ventured off to BMW for our first media visit in quite a few days.  BMW is such a huge company, so I was really excited to see how they ran.  We arrived at BMW and my jaw dropped at how huge and modern their buildings were.   I couldn’t wait to get inside.

We listened to a lecture about their upcoming cars: BMWi.  These cars are solely electric and are filled with a ton of innovative apps.  These apps help you find parking spots, give you step-by-step directions, find public transportations, book a table at local restaurants, etc.  BMW certainly is thinking ahead with the production of their new models.  I was very impressed.

After the lecture and a free lunch, we took a tour of the museum.  Here we saw BMW’s history pan out before our eyes.  We saw all the way from their very first model to their latest model.  It was very cool to see how much they have grown throughout the years.

We wrapped up our tour and had the rest of the evening to ourselves.  A few of us went to the Hofbrauhaus to celebrate Johnie’s birthday.  I have been to the Hofbrauhaus in Pittsburgh multiple times, so I was excited to visit the one in Munich.  They were both extremely similar, only a few differences between the two.  After a great evening with great friends, I fell fast asleep.

 

Day Nine

Today was the day I have been looking forward to the most: Neuschwanstein Castle.  We took yet another two hour train ride through the beautiful country side of Germany.  I swear I could stare at that landscape all day long and it could still take my breath away.

We arrived at the castle and with our luck, it was drizzling.  However, I refused to let this put a damper on my fairy tale of a day.  We had an hour or two before our tour of the castle was to start, so we ate lunch at a small cafe.  After lunch, we visited a few souvenir shops.  Finally, it was time to hike up the mountain!

The walk was about 30 minutes, up hill.  Within the first 2 minutes, I decided I am completely out of shape and it would be in my best interest to join a gym the second I get back to the United States.  However, the walk was extremely worth it as made our first glance at the amazing castle that stood before us.

Amazing barely even describes the castle.  It was simple yet intricate.  It was so massive and I could not wait to explore the inside.  Only a few of the rooms were finished before Ludwig II passed away.  The ones that were completed were so ornate.  High ceilings, breathtaking paintings, spiral stairs…you name it, the castle had it.  It was everything I had imaged it would be.  After our brief tour, a few of us hiked further up the mountain to a small bridge.  This bridge held an even better view of the castle.  Although it was raining at this point, I did not even care.  The beauty of the castle erases any sign of discomfort.

Soon enough, it was time for our hike back down the mountain.  We gathered onto the train once again and headed back home to our warm and dry hotel rooms.

 

Day Eight

Today we took a trip to Salzburg, Austria.  The train ride was two hours long.  While most of us slept, I couldn’t help but keep my eyes glued to the windows.  The scenery was absolutely gorgeous.  We got our first glimpse at the alps.  The landscape was breathtaking.  It was so picturesque, it barely seemed real.  Before we knew it, we had arrived at our destination.

We met up with our new tour guide for the day.  She took us to the gardens where parts of The Sound of Music were filmed.  I was never crazy about this movie when I was younger, but I was familiar with it so it was interesting to see the actual places where it was filmed.  The gardens were gorgeous.  Although the sky was gloomy and there was a storm raging overhead, it didn’t take away from the natural beauty of Salzburg.

Our tour guide took us to this gorgeous cobblestoned street that housed many shops.  It is Sunday, so many of the shops were closed.  However, it was such an adorable environment I could not even be mad about nothing being opened.  We had a few hours of free time where we roamed the streets and took various pictures.  We eventually met up for a group dinner at a very old, yet homey, restaurant.

We gathered onto the train for our two hour adventure back to the hotel.  After arrival it did not take long for me to fall fast asleep.

 

Day Seven

Today we visited the Dachau concentration camp.  I knew that this visit was going to be a day of mixed emotions and I was definitely right.

The weather was absolutely gorgeous.  The sky was bright blue, the birds were chirping and the sun was warm on my back.  It almost made you forget where exactly you were.

You enter the iron clad gates that held in so many innocent prisoners and the emotions hit you like a brick.  Right before your eyes is the ground that so many individuals lost their lives on.  It was surreal to think that this was the last place that so many people ever got to see.  This was their final destination.

Walking through the grounds where the barracks once were gave me the chills.  To think that thousands of individuals were crammed into tiny living spaces, with no heat and no air conditioning, was heart breaking.  They had absolutely no privacy.  They shared beds, they shared restrooms and to some, they shared the remainder of their lives together.

The crematorium had to of been the most daunting place I have ever visited.  We walked through the disinfecting rooms, the waiting rooms, the gas chamber and ultimately, the crematorium. To think that so many people had their lives brutally taken away from them there was chilling.

We ended the visit with a brief movie.  The movie showed photos and videos of prisoners in Dachau.  It was surreal to see pictures of numerous dead bodies stacked upon one another in rooms that we had just visited less than an hour ago.  It is still hard for my mind to grasp it.

We have learned about the Holocaust in school since we were young.  Learning about it in text books and seeing photos online are one thing.  However, walking through the camp and seeing the conditions in person is a completely different thing.  It made the entire experience so much more real.

Our visit to Dachau was daunting to say the least but it is something I will never forget.  There will always be a special place in my heart for all of those innocent victims who lost their lives to hatred.

 

FC Bayern Munchen Wins!

In response to Helen’s post that mentioned Munich’s recent win in the Champions League Finals, I just want to paint a quick picture of the celebration scene.

I watched the game in apartment with about 15 people, on ZDF, and although the broadcast was in German, the excitement of scoring a goal is definitely universal. It was a nail biter, and the room was tense as we sat eating freshly made crepes with Nutella and drinking beer for the first half of the game as the ball bounced from end to end without ever passing a goal post. But when Bayern scored the first goal, the spirits immediately lifted as high fives and cheers filled the room. A penalty kick tied the game and in the final few minutes, Bayern’s Robben used some fancy footwork to put the ball into the net. The teams’ celebration was so adorable to watch! They were laughing and crying and dancing and hugging and throwing their coach in the air. We watched the post-game from our seats, still pretty calm in relation to my Mom when the Steelers win.

Just when I started to think, “Wow, this may not be as crazy as when we win the Super Bowl,” we headed out to the streets… One of Lara’s friends made a pretty convincing replica cup out of foil and held it above his head through the entire crowd, not only spurring dozens of chants and cheers, but also giving me a point of reference for where I could locate him, because I was overwhelmingly one of the shortest people celebrating. They shut down a main street and it was flooded with bright red jerseys and scarves, “Super Bayern” chants and a lot of alcohol:  no open container laws here! People were climbing atop traffic lights and scaling bus stop stations and the police were standing by, but I didn’t see any interaction with them. Above, there were fireworks and waving Bavarian flags of all sizes and below there was a mosaic of broken beer bottles lining the streets. We only stayed out until about 1:30 a.m., but noise and the level of  excitement told me the streets were lively ’til sunrise.

You win, Europe. I’m a converted soccer fan.

 

 

Some final thoughts

Sitting at home writing this final blog post, it seems surreal that just two weeks ago we left Pittsburgh for Germany. I know from our past trips that these journeys — trips we start planning months in advance — just end far too quickly.  That’s one of the reasons I started writing blogs. I want to remember as much as I can, and these entries help me recall the big and small things that make these trips so special.

Every time we go, I collect random experiences that don’t fit in one cohesive blog about a certain day or city. So here goes:

Berlin was certainly under construction. Cranes and work sites everywhere. It’s a reflection of Germany’s economic strength as compared to the other European Union countries. I didn’t expect this much, though, and the projects ranged from more hotels to new museums and cultural attractions.

But with that growth came enormous sacrifice. Several of the media outlets we visited told us about severe staff reductions in 2008, a reaction to the worlwide financial crash and severe drop in advertising revenue. We heard that in Berlin and Munich.

Munich was a stark contrast to Berlin in many ways, but what I was not prepared for was the number of beggars so close to our hotel. Women and men, some with children at times. I can never get used to this when we travel, and we’ve seen it everywhere. You want to give them money, as they appear so pitiful, but our tour guides and hotel contacts always tell us not to do so. And we saw the same people again and again. Just awful.

German men wear their wedding rings on their right hand, not the left. In fact, at one of our visits, one of our hosts told us he wore his ring on his right hand while engaged and then moved it over.

One of the loveliest sights in Salzburg were the couples or parents and children dressed in Austrian garb, strolling casually along the streets. Many were headed to shops and restaurants, enjoying their Sunday afternoon together. And not that many stores were open on Sunday, just those in the tourist center. They do know how to relax.

Germans are energy conscientious to the maximum degree, and the reminders of their efficiency and dedication to conserving resources are everywhere. But Jan and I had a hilarious experience at a restaurant one of our last nights in Munich — an energy saving bathroom with toilets with spouting water and rotating seats. You just had to be there.

Shopping was not a great experience for me.  Beer steins, cuckoo clocks, and leiderhosen and dirndl skirts could be had at any number of shops, mostly in Munich, but very little in the way of interesting jewelry and art items that I love to bring back. Great chocolate, though, and delicious gelato! (Hope you’re reading this, Audrey Prisk! Almost as good as what we had in Italy ….)

We had lots of German food, but visitors can eat their fill of Italian and Turkish food, too. Falafel and kabobs on every corner, it seemed. I don’t want sausage anytime soon, that’s for sure. But I enjoyed the meals, even though I have pledged to eat vegetables and salads for at least a week. Very little of that in our dinners … and if you wanted it, it was extra. (But no spargel — asparagus — for me for a while. It was in season, and I had quite enough!)

I didn’t have time to do much museum exploring, outside of our scheduled visits, which is just something my husband and I always loved to do. I really wanted to go to Museum Island in Berlin, as well as the Jewish Museum where the “Jew in a Box” exhibition is running. It just leaves room for another visit someday.

Visiting Dachau complemented what we saw in Berlin and brought the agony and terror of those photographs to a new light for me. First we learned that Hitler and crew used Dachau in particular for getting rid of his political opponents. Mostly men were there, and many came from other countries as prisoners of war. The Germans performed horrible experiments on these poor people, and the torture and humiliation inflicted upon the prisoners defy description here. I purchased two books — a catalog of an excellent photography exhibition of survivors and a Dachau memoir. I read them both before returning home. The memoir, written by a South Tyrol native who was really an Italian citizen, explained what happened to you if you refused to serve in the German army. It’s a miracle that he survived. One of the most terrible things was at liberation, the prisoners ran to the barracks after the guards had fled. They stripped off their filthy and vermin-infested clothes and put on SS shirts. That prompted the American soldiers to send them to another prison camp before they finally were let go, extending his jail time and preventing him from being reunited with his family. An amazing tale.

Two things we learned there: First, the Germans were so unbelievably cruel to these poor souls. Making them stand at attention outside in horrible weather or hanging them by their arms for hours or depriving them of what little food and drink for infractions such as leaving a coffee ring on a table. Second, many of these guards got away with their horrible deeds. They re-entered German society and returned to their farms and jobs. I suppose they all couldn’t be tried, but I hope they suffered … they certainly deserved it. Seeing all of this explains why the Nazi hunters continued to look for them decades later, including several Americans.

Some of the cathedrals and churches we visited we so plain compared to the Italian churches we saw last year. Former Pope Benedict’s church in Munich is one example. Lots of plain brick, not many stained glass windows. But again, many were horribly damaged in the war. The church in Munich where Jan and I attended Mass was just beautiful. Lots of attention and love in that church. It was a beautiful candlelight Mass and special service. We enjoyed being there, and when I took communion with all the others, I was moved almost to tears thinking back to the horrible things I saw at Dachau earlier that day. Catholics in particular were persecuted by the Nazis. May those victims have found peace as well as their descendants.

I did not expect Munich to be as packed with tourists as it was. Some days you could barely walk there were so many people. THe Glockenspeil there is quite lovely (although the one in Prague is more ornate). Jan and I snagged a ringside seat for that one and had some marvelous pastries and drinks. We saw lots of stag and bachelorette parties in Munich. We had fun talking to several of the brides and grooms in Marienplatz, who often wore matching T-shirts or hats marking the countdown to the big day.

And one thing we didn’t see as much were people constantly talking or texting on their cell phones. They had them, but it wasn’t what you see here in the States.

Munich is over the top today, I am sure, with Bayern Munich’s win in the Championship League. Wish we could still be there to watch the celebration!